{"id":5427,"date":"2026-06-11T10:32:56","date_gmt":"2026-06-11T08:32:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/2026\/06\/11\/utvrdjivanje-spf-bez-volontera-trziste-kozmetike-usmerava-se-ka-novim-izazovima-i-trendovima\/"},"modified":"2026-06-11T11:41:12","modified_gmt":"2026-06-11T09:41:12","slug":"utvrdjivanje-spf-bez-volontera-trziste-kozmetike-usmerava-se-ka-novim-izazovima-i-trendovima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/2026\/06\/11\/utvrdjivanje-spf-bez-volontera-trziste-kozmetike-usmerava-se-ka-novim-izazovima-i-trendovima\/","title":{"rendered":"Determining SPF without volunteers? The cosmetics market is directing towards new challenges and trends"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Until a few years ago, determination of SPF values \u200b\u200bwithout human testing was considered an almost unattainable goal \u2014 an idea for the future, not in everyday practice. Today, the situation is changing and new approaches are beginning to shape a different understanding of sun protection product testing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This change is not only a consequence of technological development. It stems from growing regulatory requirements, expectations of the cosmetic industry and increasing consumer awareness of the safety, reliability and ethical aspects of product testing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>What is SPF (Sun Protection Factor)?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It&#8217;s a numerical measure of how long a protection product protects the skin from UVB rays (which cause the most redness and burning) compared to when the skin is unprotected.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/Picture2.png\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>Why do traditional in vivo methods and tests on volunteers cause concern?<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Although in vivo SPF testing is still considered the gold standard according to the ISO 24444, it has been controversial for years. First, ethical questions arose, as it became increasingly difficult to justify testing on volunteers that involved exposing their skin to UV radiation, especially at a time of increasing public concern for the safety and well-being of subjects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Another concern related to the reproducibility of the results. Even with strict adherence to prescribed protocols, biological variability among subjects often affected the final test results. For manufacturers, this represented a certain risk, while for regulatory bodies it raised the question of how consistent and reliable the declared SPF value can be considered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The third challenge &#8211; time and costs. The in vivo method is organizationally demanding, as it involves the engagement of volunteers, medical supervision and the fulfillment of numerous procedural requirements. In practice, such a process often slows down the bringing of products to market.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/Picture1.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>ISO 23675:2024 &#8211; a breakthrough in the determination of sun protection factors using the in vitro method<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The introduction of the standard <a>ISO 23675:2024 <em>Cosmetics \u2014 Sun protection test methods \u2014 In vitro determination of sun protection factor (SPF)<\/em> <\/a>&nbsp;does not only represent a methodological improvement, but marks a fundamental change in the way of evaluating the effectiveness of sun protection products. The new standard defines an in vitro method for determining SPF values, enabling precise measurements without involving human volunteers in the testing process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The test is based on the analysis of radiation transmission through a product layer applied to a suitable substrate that simulates skin or PMMA panels (laboratory &#8220;skin model&#8221;), using advanced spectrophotometric techniques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">From a regulatory point of view, this is a step towards harmonization with global trends. Increasing emphasis is placed on:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>reducing human testing<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>improving reproducibility of results and stability of SPF values<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>enabling the standardization of methods in laboratories.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is important to point out that the in vitro approach is not just a substitute for existing methods. It provides greater control over test conditions and enables comprehensive testing of UV filter behavior across the entire radiation spectrum, from the UVB to the UVA range.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/Picture3.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>Measurement of UVA and UVB radiation and precise evaluation of the effectiveness of cosmetics<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">What makes this change particularly significant is not only the move away from in vivo methods, but above all the fact that in vitro testing is increasingly viewed as a more operationally reliable instrument.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this way, there is a change in the previous understanding: methods that do not include human subjects have long been seen as a compromise, while today they are increasingly becoming the basic choice \u2014 not only because of their reliability, but also because they allow a higher level of control over the results, as well as the precise determination of the critical wavelength and the overall effectiveness of the formulations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>SPF values \u200b\u200bunder control &#8211; the benefits of a new approach for the cosmetics industry<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Applying an ISO 23675:2024 compliant approach brings several concrete benefits:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Rapid product development: enables faster assessment of UV protection effectiveness already in the early stages of formulation<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Greater comparability of results: standardized conditions reduce the influence of external variables on the obtained SPF values<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Risk reduction in documentation: consistent and reproducible results are important for the development of PIF documentation, as each product must be supported by valid evidence of efficacy.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In addition to the technical characteristics, the communication aspect is also increasingly pronounced. Consumers are increasingly scrutinizing the testing methods of sun protection products, making non-human or animal testing data an important element of a brand&#8217;s marketing message and reputation.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/Picture4.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>How to implement SPF labeling according to the new in vitro method?<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is a process that should include several business segments:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Research and development \u2013 \u200b\u200bintegration of testing already in the early stages of formulation development<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Quality Department &#8211; adjustment of verification procedures and improvement of product batch control<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Regulatory obligations &#8211; harmonization of complete documentation with the requirements of ISO 23675:2024<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Marketing \u2013 effectively communicating product safety and efficacy<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>Why is measuring sun protection factor (SPF) in vitro the new standard?<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The history of standards development shows that methods that simultaneously advance ethical principles and scientific reliability become generally accepted over time. Considering that UVB and UVA radiation represent a real and measurable danger, accuracy in determining the level of protection remains one of the key priorities of regulatory institutions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">ISO 23675:2024 meets those requirements, combining a modern approach and high reproducibility of results. That is why it cannot be seen as a passing innovation, but as a clear indicator of the direction in which future regulations and market practices will develop.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/Picture5.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong><strong>SPF testing method in J.S. Hamilton in accordance with ISO 23675:2024<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">J.S. Hamilton is equipped and conducts sun protection tests in accordance with ISO 23675:2024 and supports manufacturers in the practical application of this method &#8211; from defining sample requirements and conducting measurements, to interpreting results within regulatory frameworks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you want to find out how the new requirements can affect your cosmetic product, we are at your disposal &#8211; splaboratorija@splaboratorija.rs<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Until a few years ago, determination of SPF values \u200b\u200bwithout human testing was considered an almost unattainable goal \u2014 an idea for the future, not in everyday practice. Today, the situation is changing and new approaches are beginning to shape a different understanding of sun protection product testing. This change is not only a consequence [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[59],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5427","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5427","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5427"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5427\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5438,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5427\/revisions\/5438"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5427"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5427"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/splaboratorija.rs\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5427"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}